In the world of outdoor apparel, "waterproof" is one of the most used-and most misunderstood-terms. For buyers sourcing custom jackets, rainwear, or technical outerwear, understanding how waterproof protection actually works is essential to making informed decisions. Two technologies form the foundation of modern waterproof apparel: DWR (Durable Water Repellent) and lamination. While they are often mentioned together, they serve entirely different functions.
Think of it this way: lamination is the shield that stops water from penetrating the fabric, while DWR is the first line of defense that prevents the shield from being overwhelmed. Both are necessary. Neither alone is sufficient. Below, we break down how each technology works, how they complement each other, and what your buyers need to know when evaluating your product line.
Part 1: Lamination – The Waterproof Membrane
What Is Lamination?
Lamination refers to the process of bonding a waterproof, breathable membrane to a face fabric (and often a backer fabric). This creates a multi-layer composite that stops liquid water from passing through while allowing water vapor (sweat) to escape. Lamination is what makes a garment structurally waterproof.
Common Types of Laminates
| Type | Construction | Best For |
|---|---|---|
| 2-Layer | Face fabric + membrane (backer is separate mesh or liner) | Casual rainwear, entry-level shells |
| 2.5-Layer | Face fabric + membrane + printed protective layer | Lightweight, packable rain jackets |
| 3-Layer | Face fabric + membrane + bonded backer fabric | High-performance outerwear, professional use |
Key Metrics Buyers Should Understand
Waterproof Rating (measured in mm):
This number indicates how much water pressure the fabric can withstand before leaking. A hydrostatic head test is used to determine this.
5,000 – 10,000 mm: Light to moderate rain; suitable for casual use
10,000 – 15,000 mm: Moderate to heavy rain; suitable for hiking, commuting
15,000 – 20,000 mm: Heavy rain and snow; suitable for skiing, mountaineering
20,000+ mm: Extreme conditions; professional-grade protection
Breathability Rating (measured in g/m²/24hr):
This measures how much moisture vapor can pass through the fabric in a 24-hour period.
5,000 – 10,000 g: Adequate for low-intensity activities
10,000 – 15,000 g: Good for moderate to high exertion
15,000+ g: Excellent for high-output activities like skiing, paddling, or alpine climbing
What to Communicate to Buyers
*"Lamination determines the baseline waterproof performance of the garment. When we specify a 20K/15K fabric, we are telling you that this jacket can withstand sustained heavy rain while allowing sweat from high-exertion activities to escape. The lamination is a permanent feature-it will not wash out or wear away with normal use."*
Part 2: DWR – The Durable Water Repellent Finish
What Is DWR?
DWR is a chemical polymer coating applied to the outermost face fabric of a waterproof garment. It does not make the fabric waterproof; rather, it causes water to bead up and roll off the surface. This serves two critical functions:
It prevents the face fabric from becoming saturated, which would trap heat and increase weight
It maintains the breathability of the membrane by preventing "wetting out"
How DWR Works
When a DWR coating is fresh and active, water beads and rolls off the fabric surface. As the DWR wears down from use, abrasion, and contamination, the face fabric begins to "wet out"-meaning water soaks into the outer layer. When this happens, the membrane can still keep water out, but breathability is severely compromised because the saturated outer layer blocks vapor from escaping.
PFC-Free DWR: The Industry Shift
Traditional DWR treatments were based on perfluorinated compounds (PFCs), which have raised environmental and health concerns. The industry is now shifting toward PFC-free DWR formulations, typically made from hydrocarbon or silicone-based polymers. While performance is now comparable, PFC-free treatments may require more frequent reapplication.
DWR Maintenance: What Buyers Need to Know
DWR is not permanent. It degrades over time and must be refreshed. Communicate to your buyers:
DWR can be restored using technical wash-in or spray-on treatments
Tumble drying on low heat can reactivate certain DWR formulations
Using standard detergents or fabric softeners will accelerate DWR failure